My Trip to Italy’s City of Ceramics
Pomona, by Gianna Boschi (1968) at the MIC
In late August of 2024, I traveled to Faenza, Italy, informally known as the city of ceramics. If you love ceramic art as much as I do, it is definitely worth a visit! In this post, I’ll share some info on how I traveled there and what to see, including the incredible Museo Internazionale Delle Ceramiche (or MIC for short) and the annual Argillá Italia. The city of Faenza is in the Emilia Romagna region of Italy, located between Milan, Florence, and Venice.
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Argillá Italia
The Argillá Italia is an annual festival of ceramic art held in the city of Faenza, usually around the last weekend of August. Hundreds of ceramic artists from across Italy and around the world descend on the city, shutting down the streets and setting up booths with their artwork. Ceramic enthusiasts flock from all over to see the artwork and shop! There is a wide variety of work, from functional to sculptural, figurative and abstract, with many different glazing and firing techniques. You could easily spend a weekend here exploring and chatting with other clay lovers. The festival includes other activities and events throughout the weekend as well.
Here are a few photos of the festival and my favorite pieces.
The MIC
The MIC, A.k.a. the Museo Internazionale Delle Ceramiche is like the MET of ceramics. There’s no way you can see it all in a day…or maybe even two. Due to the size of the museum’s collection, and my time limit on a day trip, I chose to focus on two exhibit areas so I could spend some quality time with the pieces. First, was their special exhibition on Gio Ponti, the Italian ceramic artist, designer, and architect extrodinare. The Museum hosts rotating special exhibitions, and also different events so before you go, check what’s on. The Museum is as easy 10 minute walk from the Faenza train station.
My favorites from the Gio Ponte exhibition were these intricately decorated maiolica plates with long limbed women lurking over cityscapes, made in 1925-27.
The other two exhibitions I viewed in the museum’s permanent collection where Italian Ceramics from the second post-war period, and International Sculpture from the 20th Century. I was particularly struck by the Italian ceramic sculptors working around WWII. They were making incredible large scale sculptures in clay long before big name American ceramic sculpture artists like Robert Arneson, Viola Frey, and Peter Voulkos began. Here are a few of my favorites:
Finally, the museum has an incredible bookshop with books in Italian and English. I picked up a beautifully illustrated book on Gio Ponti’s work. I hope to visit the museum again one day. I only hit the tip of the iceberg.
Ceramic Artist Residency in Faenza
While researching more about Faenza, I came across an artist residency in the city that I’m adding to my wish list. Maybe it might interest you too. It is hosted by the Faenza Ceramic Art Center. The residency includes 24/7 studio access and technical support, as well as private accommodation in the city of Faenza. Residents can apply for a period of 1 - 3 months, with an opportunity to exhibit work produced during the residency at a local venue.
Practical Considerations
Getting There
To get to Faenza, I flew into Bologna Guglielmo Marconi International Airport. The Bologna Central train station is an easy 15 minute connection from the airport via the Marconi Express tram. From the Bologna Central station, you can take a train to Faenza in about 40 minutes. I used the Trenitalia App to purchase tickets and view schedules right on my phone.
Where I stayed
For this trip, I chose to stay in Bologna, the region’s capital city. I found an airbnb — a private room in a residential apartment building with its own bathroom, mini fridge, and a balcony with a beautiful city view — for about $45 USD a night. In Venice, a similar set up would cost at least $200 USD a night. From Bologna, I took day trips by train to Faenza (40 mins), Venice (1.5 hrs), and Florence (1 hr).
View from my airbnb in Bologna
Basilica di San Petronio in Bologna’s main square
What places are on your ceramic art travel list? Drop me a line at egleason888@gmail.com.
